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Good times.

Friday, August 29, 2003

This is from Will Pittz. The route he's referring to, Royal Arches, is over 1,600 feet I think but lots of people stop after 1,400. The last couple hundred feet are easy fourth class and most decide to start the long rappels as soon as the harder climbing is over. The strategy with longer climbs is to start early and keep moving. You will need every minute of daylight. When Pete and I did the route we finished rapping off with headlamps. After a full day of climbing-as with a full day of any exercise-you are completely spent. You want only to eat, drink and sleep. In the second paragraph Will is referring to Camp 4, a legendary climbers' campground in the park. He'd been climbing or rappeling for probably 12 hours straight

This is the entire note. I've changed nothing.


the valley. the black hole of climbing - I could see how you could get sucked right in there and never leave. Never got a good look at El Cap, since we came and left at night. But Half Dome is one of the most impressive and intimidating things I've ever seen. And a bar at the base of the climb? Are you kidding me? I now have two places to recommend for friends to get married - North Conway and Yosemite Valley. For the friendly staff.

I couldn't think of a better intro to big routes than Royal Arches. The first red hook made me forget that I hadn't eaten anything all day. The second and my legs weren't sore. After a couple of 16 oz. bud cans, the cuts on my hands had healed. After several busch 12 ouncers, the stars looked magnificent, but I couldn't figure out why it was raining, or what this man was doing with a flashlight and wide-brim hat asking me what my plans were for the night. Wasn't it obvious? I was going to pass out right there under midnight lightning.

When are we going back?

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